Is It Possible To Have Glowing Skin after 50?

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Changes in our SKIN after 50 predominantly occur due to

  • The multiple effects of hormonal fluctuations
  • A shrinking skeleton
  • Decreased collagen production
  • Accumulated sun damage over the years
  • Repetitive facial expressions over the years (causing lines and wrinkles to become etched in).

Some of the typical skin changes that occur during this period of estrogen decline:-

  • Dryer (and sometimes itchy) skin
  • Thinning skin
  • Decreased elasticity
  • Sensitivity
  • An increase in rosacea and other inflammatory skin conditions
  • Increased  pigmentation (äge spots”)
  • Lines and wrinkles & volume loss.

Fortunately, there’s lots we can do for healthy skin after 50 

Cleanse GENTLY

Cleansing is an important skin care step at every age. However, as we get older our skin becomes more delicate and drier. So we need to use a cleanser that is right for our skin. Choose either creamy formulas or cleansing masks -rather than harsh foam or gel cleansers (which can strip moisture away and compromise our delicate lipid barrier).

Hydrate, Hydrate, Hydrate

Oestrogen stimulates the production of oils in our skin and also our skins ability to hold moisture. So when oestrogen production diminishes  – dry and sometimes itchy skin becomes a common problem.

Although ‘Dry’ and ‘dehydrated’ seem like two words which describe the same thing;- there is a big difference when it comes to our skin! To put it simply, dehydrated skin lacks water and dry skin lacks oil / lipids.

In relation to skin care, hydration means increasing the amount of water in our skin cells, which results in a healthy, smooth and plump complexion. When our skin doesn’t have enough moisture, it gets scaly, rough and dull.

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Moisture and hydration skincare products do different things. A moisturiser tends not to hydrate the skin. Instead it forms a barrier to prevent moisture from escaping. A hydration product on the other hand – actually brings water to the skin. So, it is important that we give our skin the right combination of hydration and moisture.

If you are not using a serum now YOU SHOULD. Most contain effective anti-aging ingredients not typically found in other products such as cleansers, toners, moisturizers,or facial oils.

You Still Need SPF

The maintenance of Melanocytes (cells that manufacture the pigment Melanin) is under the control of estrogens. During menopause, the number of melanocytes in the skin is therefor reduced (due to a decrease in estrogen). Less melanocytes, means we produce less of the protective melanin. Our skin therefore becomes more prone to sun damage.

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Although a lot of the damage was caused by the amount of sun we got in our 20s, 30s, and 40’s, it’s still vital to protect our skin from further damage. So include a broad-spectrum SPF as part of your daily skincare regime.

Sunscreen for anti-aging

Hit the Brown Spots

Pigmentation äge spots” on the face, hands, and chest can look more obvious around menopause. Help prevent them by using sunscreen every day. Already got spots? See here

Clean up your DIET and consider your GUT

Eating foods rich with antioxidants can help your skin from the inside out. See more here regarding skin boosting super foods to increase in your diet and here for foods to avoid. Also consider:- Omega-3’s

Consider your Mental Health 

Our mind and skin are very much connected. This is now being referred to as Psychodermatogy.

Constant stress increases the production of our stress hormone ‘cortisol’. This then triggers inflammation and can also throw off other hormones in our body.  Increased inflammation is not good news for inflammatory skin disorders.

Stress can also disrupt the balance between the good and bad bacteria in our gut. As we know, our gut health can also cause havoc with our skin. See Gut Article

Take time during your day to reduce stress levels. Try yoga, meditation, pilates, going for a walk, reading OR any other stress-reduction techniques – to help reduce cortisol levels.

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Get Moving

Exercise helps keep our skin healthy and vibrant. The multiple benefits of exercise include:-

  1. Increased circulation, including blood flow. This
    results in oxygen and nutrients being delivered to
    our skin.
  2. An increase in blood flow, also helps waste products 
    to be carried away from our skin.
  3. Endorphins (our feel good hormones) are produced. This subsequently helps reduce stress levels and cortisol. This can result in an improvement of acne, eczema and other skin conditions.

Upgrade your Skincare regime

  • Upgrade your Skincare Regime / Products – to suit your changing skin conditions. Visit the Solution Tool for further advice regarding which skincare products will best suit your individual skin concerns.

Bulk Up on Beauty Sleep

Getting enough sleep helps your skin look younger. Lack of sleep can cause hormonal imbalances (and also decrease our metabolisms). It can also increase  flare-ups of inflammatory skin conditions and adult acne. getting adequate sleep helps prevent dark circles under our eyes, and it also gives the rest of our body a chance to recharge.  Aim for 7-9 hours per night.

Sleep and your skinAnd a Retinol serum at night

Retinol (Vitamin A) is clinically proven to make a huge impact on how skin ages. Dermatologists have been prescribing it for decades as the gold standard for promoting skin cell turnover and collagen production. It helps to correct lines, wrinkles, and scarring and can also help with breakouts.

Retinol benefits

Minimize Wrinkled Skin

Wrinkles are formed from a combination of too much sun over the years, hormonal change, repeated facial expressions, a loss of collagen, and thinning skin. Wrinkles are more obvious when our skin is dry. SO use a hydrating serum and a moisterising cream every day.

  • Some people choose to get muscle relaxant injections – these work to prevent the formation of static wrinkles by stopping the signal between the nerve and muscle. The decreased movement in the muscle places less stress on the skin helping to give a fresh and youthful appearance. Anti-wrinkle injections are made from a purified protein that temporarily causes facial muscles to relax, instantly softening lines and wrinkles and reducing the severity of visible wrinkles. Please contact Victoria for more information on Laser Clinics Australia bookings. Or visit the  LCA website
  • Hyaluronic dermal filler injections – once again, this is a personal choice made by some people. A dermal filler helps re-volumise and hydrate the face. Made from hyaluronic gel – a natural sugar already present in the human body. Hyaluronic can help restore fullness and volume in numerous facial areas. Visit here for more details.

Always use an Eye Cream.

The skin around the eye is thinner and more fragile. It requires a different efficacy and mix of ingredients than the skin on the rest of your face does.

Tip – Try keeping your eye cream in the fridge, as the cold cream will help constrict blood vessels to reduce puffy under eye bags in the mornings.

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Make sure your using skin products that suite YOUR skin type

It’s very important to choose cleansers, moisturizers, and a skin care routine formulated for your skin type. If you don’t know yours, find out at What’s Your Skin Type.

Skin Boosting Supplements

  • Certain supplements can do wonders for our skin especially if its a supplement your lacking in. For example Zinc, probiotics (see gut health), and Omega 3’s (which help with inflammation and dryness). See here for more

 

Victoria Isherwood (Registered Nurse)

Victoria Isherwood (Registered Nurse)

 

About / Contact

Victoria has been nursing for 20 years. She has a double degree in Nursing and Health Science, as well as a Post Graduate in Midwifery. In addition, she has also undertaken comprehensive and extensive training in dermatology and the cosmetic field. Having an eye for detail, Victoria now works exclusively in skincare aesthetics as a Cosmetic Nurse.

Working in the Cosmetic/ Dermatology field, Victoria has seen a lot of fads come and go. This Blog aims to help you eliminate the confusion of an over abundance of Skin advice and products on the market today.  The objective  is to help you filter through the gimmicky products and advice, to get to the good material. All products shown are clinical grade, cruelty free, and have undertaken rigorous testing.

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Blog topics will help educate and shed light on various skin (& related health) concerns. It is important to take a wholistic approach when it comes to skin health. Blog topics will cover both conventional and functional medicine. This includes various treatment options, clinical grade products, natural products, hormones, gut health, cosmetic injectables, natural remedies and more.

Please read on to find out more

For in clinic skin treatments / injectables with Victoria at Laser Clinics Australia please visit here OR contact:-

Warriewood (Tuesdays) Ph: 02 83192078

Brookvale (Thursdays) Ph: 80148911

For dermatological clinically proven skincare products visit here

😊 Victoria Isherwood

Contact

 

 

Typical Skin Changes In Our 40’s + what we can do to help….

Life happens and somehow the years fly by. Then before we know it we are in our fourth decade.

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The changes….

Around our late 30’s / early 40s women typically go through a transitional period (which can last several years) caused by hormonal fluctuations. This period is often referred to as ‘perimenopause’.

Due to the shifts in hormone production (mainly progesterone and estrogen), perimenopause can bring about many changes. Unlike full-fledged (or early menopause), you DO continue to ovulate and you ARE still producing estrogen. In fact, your hormones will often test in the “normal” range.

Some of the typical changes that occur during this period of estrogen and progesterone fluctuations (and then decline) include:-

  • Skin Changes – eg …dryer, thinning, adult acne, rosacea, pigmentation, increased sensitivity, less elastic, itchy, lines and wrinkles & volume loss.
  • Hot Flushes
  • Trouble sleeping
  • Poorer concentration & also memory
  • Anxiety 
  • Mood swings
  • Night sweats
  • Increased PMS symptoms
  • Fatigue
  • Irregular periods – often short cycles + heavier bleeding.
  • Weight changes
  • Decrease in breast volume
  • Change in sex drive
  • Etc

Specific SKIN Changes

Changes in our skin predominantly occur due to:-

  • the multiple effects of hormonal fluctuations
  • a shrinking skeleton
  • decreased collagen production
  • accumulated sun damage over the years
  • Repetitive facial expressions over the years (causing lines and wrinkles to become etched in). See more info here.

Adult Acne:

Beginning in our 30’s, our levels of androgens increase. Testosterone stimulates sebaceous glands to secrete thicker sebum. This can cause clogged pores and an increase the likeliness of adult Acne.

……see ‘Adult Acne’ Article for more information 

Facial Hair:

Due to the unstable progesterone / estrogen levels + increased testosterone, some women may develop the odd sprout (or two or three) of facial hair, particularly in the chin area.

Sagging Skin and Wrinkles:

When progesterone levels drop (causing estrogen to become unstable), fat deposits tend to become redistributed. Fat pads in our face (which provide support and structure) diminish. Instead our adipose cells can become more concentrated around the abdomen, thighs and buttocks. Leading Dermatologist Dr Kathy Fields describes this as “fat redistribution from our face to our Fanny” 😳. The result of this loss of volume in our face, can be the formation of wrinkles and skin that appears less taut.

Continuous muscle contraction over the years, is another major contributor of facial wrinkles. Continuous muscle movement causes ‘dynamic wrinkles’ which only appear when the muscle is used, however, over time, if untreated, these wrinkles can become ‘static wrinkles’ which means they become permanently etched in our skin.

Thiner less elastic Skin:

Collagen is the supportive protein structure of our skin. It helps give skin it’s youthful plumpness. Skin stays more supple when there is enough progesterone …..which helps stimulate the production of collagen.

Sun Damage:

The maintenance of Melanocytes (cells that manufacture the pigment Melanin) is under the control of estrogens. As we move closer to menopause, the number of melanocytes in the skin is reduced. With less melanocytes, we produce less of the protective melanin and skin appears lighter. Our skin is therefore more prone to sun damage.

Pigmentation:

As estrogen helps regulate the production of melanin (pigment), melanin synthesis can increase (when estrogen decreases). This can then lead to brown “age spots”. These can appear on the face, hands, neck, arms and chest of many women. This is particularly evident in areas of our skin that have been exposed to the sun over the years. See here for more info on pigmentation and melasma.

Dry and sometimes itchy skin

Estrogen stimulates the production of oils in our skin and also our skins ability to hold moisture. So when estrogen production diminishes  – dry and sometimes itchy skin becomes common.

However it’s not all bad news, there it’s lots we can do which helps dramatically. If you haven’t yet whipped your anti-aging routine into shape, now’s the time—because it only gets harder from here.

What can help?

  • A healthier diet – a healthy outside starts on the inside.
  • Skip long hot showers which drys our Skin out.
  • Supplements – such as Zinc (can do wonders for Skin), probiotics (as gut health is linked to Skin health), Omega 3’s which help with inflammation and dryness, Vitex, Sage, black cohosh etc. Speak to a naturopath.
  • Sun protection +++
  • read previous Gut Article!!
  • See previous Adult Acne Article!!
  • Retinol (Vitamin A) based night serums – is anti-aging as it helps with collagen building and the rate at which skin cells generate. Amp up your results even further by using a dermal-roller prior.
  • Going to bed earlier – as lack of sleep can add to hormonal imbalance, inflammatory skin conditions and adult acne.  Aim for 7-9 hours per night.
  • Manage stress – as cortisol can trigger skin conditions such as psoriasis, rosacea and acne. Stress also robs us of progesterone.
  • Exercise – helps with circulation (blood flow to your skin) and also stress management. See previous article.
  • Quit smoking as it has been linked to early menopause.
  • Some people choose to get mustcle relaxant injections – these work to prevent the formation of static wrinkles by stopping the signal between the nerve and muscle. The decreased movement in the muscle places less stress on the skin helping to give a fresh and youthful appearance. Anti-wrinkle injections are made from a purified protein that temporarily causes facial muscles to relax, instantly softening lines and wrinkles and reducing the severity of visible wrinkles. Please contact Victoria for more information on Laser Clinics Australia bookings. Or visit the  LCA website
  • Hyaluronic dermal filler injections – once again, this is a personal choice made by some people. A dermal filler helps re-volumise and hydrate the face. Made from hyaluronic gel – a natural sugar already present in the human body. Hyaluronic can help restore fullness and volume in numerous facial areas. Visit here for more details.
  • See the Beauty Booster Treatment
  • Upgrade your Skincare Regime / Products – to suit your changing skin conditions. Visit the Solution Tool for further advice regarding which skincare products will best suit your individual skin concerns. 
  • Skin Treatments….eg Skin Needling
  • See ‘5 Of The Worst Things You Can do For Your Skin’
  • Progesterone Cream helps a lot of women with Perimenopausal symptoms in general. I highly recommend Ona’s Natural Progesterone Cream
  • To receive a discount on Ona’s natural progesterone cream use code : Vskin10
  • Vitex – has been traditionally used in Western herbal medicine for menstrual cycle irregularities and to help relieve symptoms associated with PMS. It can also provide symptomatic relief of hormone-induced acne. Visit your local health food shop or nutritionist for more information.

 

Victoria Isherwood (Registered Nurse / Dermatology) ☺️

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Skin Toner – What You Need To Know

For many, the word “toner” brings to mind stinging astringents from the 1980’s. The original was an alcohol-based product that was used to dry up oily skin and remove any leftover dirt following cleansing. HOWEVER ‘some’ of today’s high quality formulas have completely evolved.

WHY has Toner Made a Major Comeback?

Skin Toner Benefits

Pore Minimizing
Large facial pores allow more dirt, oil and toxins to enter the skin which can cause irritation and infections. Toners help minimises enlarged pores by exfoliating pore-clogging dead skin cells (look for the gentle ingredient poly-hydroxy acid & natural oligosaccharides). SO when our pores are reduced, it means fewer oils and toxins are able to settle into the skin. This creates a fresher, cleaner and less oily appearance, while also helping prevent outbreaks.

pH Balance
Our skins natural pH level is typically between five and seven (the scale being 0 to 14 and 7 being the most neutral level). HOWEVER our ideal pH balance can get out of whack due to various factors. When this happens, our skin try’s to work overtime to return to its normal level which can cause stress – and for some people an over production of sebum causing breakouts and blackheads. A good quality toner can help restore our skins vital PH balance.

Protection & Detoxification
As discussed, toners can help reduce pore size and also tighten cell gaps after cleansing. This helps reduce the risk of impurities and environmental toxins and contaminants penetrating into the skin. It can even protect and remove chlorine and minerals present in tap water.

Blemish Reduction
Acne can not only be a nuisance, it can also lead to facial scarring. By removing dead skin cells, oily buildup and residue from facial pores, it means less blemishes.

Hydration and Nourishment
Toners are a good way to add other specific ingredients and nutrients to your skin that you may not have in your other products. They can also add another layer of skin-replenishment and hydration to your skin. This is essential for maintaining suppleness and moisture, creating a more youthful appearance.

Skin Prep – in readiness for what follows
Balancing your skin allows other products (such as serums and moisturisers) in your regimen to absorb better.

Night Time Renewal
Toner helps remove any pore-clogging impurities that will saturate further into our skin (during our several hours of snooze time) over night. This helps our skin in its nightly renewal process. SO ….big tip ….always remove makeup before bed and don’t skip Toner.

What to look for

It’s important to look for clinical grade toners which are made with many of the same ingredients you might find in your other skin-care products. High quality ingredients are the key to the most effective Toners available. Every ingredient has an important job to do. Toners should always be alcohol-free!

SPOTLIGHT …..Rodan + Fields Pore Minimizing Toner

Rodan + Fields REDEFINE (alcohol-free) Toner has an exclusive combination of clarifying ingredients which minimises the appearance of enlarged pores quickly and efficiently. Gentle poly-hydroxy acids exfoliate pore-clogging dead skin cells while oligosaccharides help reduce the appearance of pores and prepares the skin for products which follow. Shop here

The bottom line: The next time you’re wondering whether or not you really need to add another step to your skin-care routine, remember not to tune out toner. It eliminates dirt, grease, and grime to help clear your complexion and make the rest of your products work better.

Shop here for dermatological skincare products

Please message me to find out how to save on R+F Clinical Grade products.

Victoria ☺️

Rosacea – What to do and what not to do

Rosacea is an inflammatory condition. It is characterised by intense and frequent flushing or blotchy redness, with the appearance of ‘broken blood vessels’ on the cheeks, chin, and nose, and in most cases, acne-like pimples. It is often mistaken for adult acne, however it usually lacks the blackheads and true whiteheads (‘comedones’) of acne vulgaris. It is important to distinguish between the two as the treatments that work for acne are not good for rosacea.

We are not 100% sure of the exact cause, but we do know:-

  • It runs in families
  • Sufferers usually have sensitive skin
  • Hormones play a role
  • Certain infections can may play a role
  • Gut Health is often connected (see Gut-Skin) – there is in fact a a higher incidence of rosacea in people with SIBO (small intestinal bacteria overgrowth).
  • The regulation of blood flow to the skin in rosacea is abnormal.
  • Is most common in light skinned women between the ages of 30 to 50.
  • Many sufferers also have facial seborrhoea dermatitis. This can also be known as facial dandruff.

 

There are 4 different Subtypes of Rosacea

Erythematotelangiectatic Rosacea
The inflammation is more diffused into the skin and is associated with redness and flushing. There is often episodes of flushing which occur due triggers (see triggers below).
Papulopustular Rosacea
The inflammation is heavily centred around the pore, causing pimple like redness and swelling. Sometimes pustules and nodules are present. Skin may be sebaceous and even oily in areas.
Glandular Rosacea
Is more commonly seen in men who had a history of teenage acne. It is typically around the nose area. Skin is thick and reddened, pores are large and can be filled with plugs of dead skin cells and sebum. There is usually enlargement and swelling of the oil glands on the nose which makes the nose look larger and rounded at the end.
Ocular Rosacea
The oil glands along the eyelash line. Ocular rosacea can be seen with the other types of rosacea.

Triggers

  • Spicy foods
  • Heat – including saunas and spas
  • Smoking
  • Alcohol– particularly Red wine
  • Stress, anxiety and embarrassment
  • Physical exertion
  • Cosmetic & skincare products that contain high levels of alcohol, glycolic acids or fragrance.
  • Hot drinks
  • Excessive physical exertion.
  • Due to the skins weakened barrier, certain skin treatments need to be avoided. This includes facial acid peels and microdermabrasion.

 

What else we know about all types of Rosacea

  • Demodex mites have been linked to rosacea in some studies. This microscopic mite likes to reside in hair follicles and have been shown to be more numerous in the skin of rosacea sufferers.
  • Intestinal bacteriah. pylori’ may play a role.
  • Sebaceous hyperplasia papules are often present. These are enlargements of the oil glands which look like small waxy yellow bumps and have a central pore. They are often mistaken for milia.

 

What can help

Although rosacea can not always be 100% cured, there are a variety of lifestyle changes and treatments that can help keep it under control.

  • See Kleresca
  • Topical agents such as azelaic acid, benzoyl peroxide (because P. acnes may play a role in rosacea), sulfacetamide (10%), and sulfur (5%).
  • Advances in ‘peptide technology’ have been found to help calm the inflammation associated with rosacea.
  • Specialised laser therapies – eg IPL (non-Laser intense pulsed light) or PDL (Pulsed dye Laser).
  • Short term oral antibiotics- however this is not ideal for gut health SO it should be followed with a course of probiotics.
  • One anti-aging product that is usually well tolerated is Retinol. Ideally it should be combined with gentle peptites.
  • Omega-3’s (Fish oil, flaxseed, walnuts, Sea Buckthorn
  • Probiotics …..see Gut-Skin
  • Avoiding or decreasing inflammatory foods such as wheat and unfermented dairy.
  • LED Light Therapy

 

SKINCARE

Sensitive Skin Skincare Treatment

The Skin barrier strength in rosacea is abnormal making a lot of skin products and cosmetics irritating.

1) Cleanse
Use emulsion type soap-free cleansers which sweep away makeup and other skin impurities without the use of harsh surfactants. Barrier nurturing ceramides are essential.

2) Calm
Dimethicone and allantoin can help to fortify the skin’s barrier and relieve irritation and dryness.

3) Nourish
It is important to replenish the skins natural moisture without the use of traditional emulsifiers. The aim being to hydrate and nourish.

4) Protect
Sun can play a role for rosacea sufferers. Daily lightweight sun protection is important.

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Soothe range of products ticks all bees boxes. For more information (including how to get a discount and free shipping) please email toraisherwood@gmail.com

OR visit
https://visherwood.myrandf.com/au

Anti-Aging Super Foods

These anti-aging foods benefit your SKIN & so much more:-

  1. AVOCADO is superfood packed with monounsaturated fatty acids and antioxidants. They also contain phytochemicals and other essential nutrients to help prevent the negative effects of aging.
  2. Blueberries are rich in anthocyanins, a compound well known for its anti-aging effects. They are also packed with antioxidants – which fight free radicals throughout our bodies.
  3. The essential fatty acids EPA & DHA (omega 3’s) in oily FISH help boost hydration, assists with dermatitis, eczema, acne, inflammation, brain function, depression, anxiety, ADHD, heart health & so much more. SALMON, trout, sardines and mackerel are good examples. Salmon is particularly high in astaxanthin, a super antioxidant and carotenoid known for its unique anti-aging benefits. For plant based sources of omega-3’s, some great options are flaxseeds (try cold pressed flaxseed oil), chia & walnuts. 

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4.  Hormonal decline is a common complaint of aging. MACA balances and helps normalise the hormones estrogen, progesterone and testosterone.

5.  TURMERIC is well known for its anti-aging properties, and it has been used in cosmetic formulations for centuries. According to extensive research, the curcumin in turmeric has powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. It is proving to help with:-

  • Arthritis – due to in anti-inflammatory effect.
  • Brain and other neurodegenerative conditions such as Alzheimer’s.
  • Type 2 diabetes- due to curcumins ability to help stabilise blood sugar levels.
  • Cholesterol – as it helps lower our bad LDL cholesterol.
  • Viruses – eg the flu
  • PMS

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6.  Dark chocolate (ideally 70% or higher cacao) is a superfood packed with antioxidants. These antioxidants are in the form of flavanols which help to protect our skin from free radical damage (helping it stay youthful for longer). Dark chocolate also contains:-  Magnesium, Iron, Copper, Manganese, Potassium, Phosphorus, Zinc & Selenium.

7.   Nuts (& seeds) are packed with protein and usually contain:- Essential fatty acids, Vitamin E, Zinc, B Vitamins, Selenium, fiber, L-arginine etc. Vitamin E protects skin from oxidative (cell) damage and supports healthy skin growth. Selenium (high levels are found in brazil nuts) is a powerful antioxidant, helping to support the immune system. Studies have even shown that a selenium rich diet can help to protect against skin cancer, age spots and sun damage. See previous article regarding the Skin benefits of Zinc, EFA’s etc.  Some good options are;- walnuts, almonds, brazil nuts, hazelnuts, pecans & pumpkin seeds.

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