How to Layer Your Skin Products?

Skincare can be confusing. From the toners, the serums, the a.m. moisturiser, the p.m. moisturiser etc ….your skincare regime can quickly turn into a nightmare!

Layering skincare products

Order Matters, Here’s Why

You might have the most amazing skincare products in the world, however if you’re applying them in the wrong order, you will NOT be getting the full benefits.  In fact not only will incorrect application diminish the overall effectiveness of your routine, it can leave your skin dehydrated, irritated or with break-outs!

Studies have found that matching a good skin care regimen with a healthy lifestyle is the best way to slow the signs of aging.

Think Thin-to-Thick

So which order should product be applied? An easy rule of thumb is to cleanse and then simply apply products with the thinnest consistency to the thickest.

This generally insures that:-

1) The products with the most important ingredients penetrate into the skin efficiently (eg antioxidants & active ingredients in serums).

2) You will finish with the products that help lock everything  in.

Step 1: Makeup Remover

If you wear makeup or sunscreen during the day, then a double cleanse in the evening is a must (you can skip this step in the mornings). SO either use makeup wipes, micellar water OR another gentle makeup-removing cleanser.

Step 2: Cleanser (or exfoliation)

Once your makeup is off, it’s time to actually clean your skin. You can start here in the mornings. In the evenings, this step will also ensure that you haven’t left any makeup remover residue on your skin (where it could lead to irritations or breakouts).

Starting the day with a gentle cleanser (or cleansing mask) will ensure the serums and moisturisers (that are layered on afterwards) will penetrate properly. It will also allow for a smoother make-up application (during the day).

An exfoliation product may replace a cleanser in this step once or twice per week.

Step 3: A Modern Day Toner

Back in the day, toners were harsh alcohol-based liquids that often irritated the skin. However today’s toners are filled with gentle ingredients to help clear pores and add nutrients to the skin.

Step 4: Serums

Remembering THINK to THICK!

Serums are usually super-concentrated and nutrient-dense, to address specific concerns (such as general aging, pigmentation or dehydration). SO it’s important that the skins pores efficiently absorb serums first.

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See here for a good example of a hydrating day serum. OR here for more information on Retinol serum (for night).

Step 5: Lock it in!

A Moisturiser cream ‘locks in’ all of the active ingredients and hydration that you’ve just applied. Preferably use a am cream in the morning and a pm cream at night. 

The best time to apply a moisturiser is while the skin is still slightly damp, so theres no need to wait until your serum is completely dry before applying a moisturising cream. 

Step 6: Optional add-ons 

Eye cream , foundation, additional sun cream 

Remember thin-to-thick!!

Fortunately Rodan + Fields has made all of the above super easy

Rodan + Fields skincare products are based on a ‘multi-med therapy’ philosophy. This means using the right ingredients, in the right formulations, in the right order. To see real changes in our skin, it is vital to use high quality ingredients in safe and effective amounts and formulations.

Rodan + Fields takes safety and efficacy very seriously. In order to achieve desired results (without adverse effects), each formulation has undergone months of rigorous clinical testing and has a clinical grade 99.9% purity. Did you know that other ‘cosmetic grade’ products are only approximately 70% pure (with no audits) and often contain bacteria.

With Rodan + Fields Multi-Med Therapy, great skin and the confidence and self-esteem that come with it, are within your reach.  To find out which product line is best for you please visit the Solution Tool …..& Write Your Own Prescription for Change.

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Kleresca- The Breakthrough in Dermatology

Achieve Healthy Skin With Kleresca

A breakthrough in dermatology has been getting great results all around the world.

Kleresca® is a non-invasive treatment for skin rejuvenation, rosacea and acne. It involves fluorescent light energy which stimulates the skin at the cellular level.

  • Inspired by photosynthesis 
  • Stimulates skin at a cellular level
  • Increases collagen by approximately 400%
  • Reduces inflammation
  • Reduces fine lines
  • Reduces pore size
  • Has a high safety profile
  • Is generally perceived as very comfortable (even to rosacea sufferers with enhanced sensitivity).

Another bonus is that there is no destruction of the skin’s natural barrier.

How is the treatment performed?

1. The skin is cleaned and Kleresca® Skin Rejuvenation gel is applied.

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2. The gel is illuminated for nine minutes using the multi-LED Kleresca® lamp; together creating fluorescent light energy that stimulates the skin.

3. The gel is removed and the skin is cleaned and moisturised.

The treatment is based on the interaction between the specially designed photo converter gel and the Kleresca lamp. The fluorescent light penetrates the different layers of the skin, stimulating repair and collagen production.

Kleresca Acne Treatment

Kleresca is a breakthrough treatment that safely improves acne without discomfort or downtime. The treatment combines a specially formulated gel which is applied to the face prior to going under the high intensity multi-wavelength LED light. The combination of which kills the acne causing bacteria and initiate’s healing. It will also help fade acne scaring. A treatment course is recommended – consisting of 2 treatments per week for 6 weeks.

Kleresca fluorescent light energy stimulates the skin’s own repair mechanisms:-

  • Killing bacteria responsible for acne (P. acnes)
    Reducing inflammation
  • Normalising cellular activity
  • Reducing signs of scarring by increasing collagen build-up

Kleresca Rosacea Treatment 

  • Reduces inflammation, reducing the presence of papules and pustules 
  • Reduces erythema and blushing by improving microvascularisation
  • Reduces the overall stress level of the skin, thereby reducing the feeling of burning and stinging
  • Induces a healing response, improving the overall skin quality
  • Is suitable for sensitive skin.

Learn more about rosacea here

Kleresca Skin Rejuvenation

  • Induces collagen production
  • Reduces pore size
  • Helps eliminate fine lines
  • Reduces signs of scars

Clients at Laser Clinics Australia on the Northern Beaches have been describing Kleresca as a pleasant and comfortable experience.

See here for more information

Victoria Isherwood (Registered Nurse / dermatology)

Acne 101

Acne is the most frequently diagnosed condition by dermatologist.

It affects nearly 85% of people at some point in their lives.  Whatever your age, the psychological impact can be significant. People with acne can suffer from embarrassment and low self-esteem. 

The Cause?

To put it simply, acne occurs when the oil glands (pores) in the skin become blocked with oil, dead skin cells and bacteria.

Our sebaceous glands are meant to produce sebum, which is an ‘oil’ designed to keep the skin lubricated and soft. However, when hormonal changes and other factors cause the gland to produce an excess of sebum (OR thicker than normal sebum) the problem arises. The pore becomes blocked and there is a higher chance that bacteria will multiply, leading to inflammation and acne.

Acne usually starts at puberty when increased levels of certain sex hormones (known as androgens) create an increase in the size and oil production of glands.

Hormonal acne can return again in our 30’s, as our levels of androgen hormones increase. Testosterone (an androgen hormone) stimulates sebaceous glands in women to secrete ‘thicker’ sebum. This can cause clogged pores and an increase the likeliness of ‘adult Acne’.

ACNE CYCLE

One of the most common misconceptions is that breakouts form overnight. However, the acne cycle begins days or even weeks before blemishes reach the skin’s surface. The acne cycle starts when hormones trigger sebum production. The sebum combines with dead skin cells, which leads to clogged pores. When pores are clogged, acne bacteria can quickly multiply, resulting in inflamed acne blemishes.

What can contribute?

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  • Hormones! Especially during the teenage years and then again during perimenopause.
  • A high G.I diet – studies have shown that a high-glycemic index (GI) diet (refined carbohydrates like those found in white bread and also sugar) can increase Acne. It’s suspected that raised insulin levels from high GI foods may trigger a release of hormones that inflame follicles and increase oil production. Also ….sugar feeds bacteria!
  • Stress hormones – such as cortisol can increase inflammation and stimulate oil glands.
  • Family history.
  • Poor gut health.
  • Too much unfermented dairy, gluten and sugar – which can all cause inflammation.
  • Using the wrong skincare products – commonly ones that are too harsh and can breakdown our protective lipid barrier
  • Vitamin and mineral deficiencies (Zinc & Vitamin A).
  • Polycystic Ovary Syndrome (PCOS) – This is due to increased levels of androgen (or ‘male’) hormones – testosterone and DHEA. Acne caused by PCOS tends to flare up in ‘hormonal sensitive’ areas around the lower part of the face.
  • Wearing heavy foundation. Some makeup can clog your pores. So while you might be tempted to cover your acne with lots of base and concealer, try to resist. Instead, consider a more breathable tinted moisturiser or foundation like Radiant Defense Perfecting Liquid which is non-acnegenic (so it won’t cause breakouts).
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Common Problem:- Why do I have dry skin yet still get breakouts??

It’s a common misconception that breakout prone skin ‘must be oily and therefore needs to be dried out’. When in fact dehydrated skin (common in adults more than teens) is often part of the problem, particularly with ADULT acne. A lot of the products on the market are in fact too drying and add to the problem!

So it’s important to understand the difference between dry and dehydrated skin. Skin that becomes dehydrated from over use of harsh products becomes more prone to bacteria getting in. This is due to a compromised skin barrier.

The key is to use products that will help prevent pores becoming clogged (with bacteria, dead skin cells and sebum), whilst keeping the skin hydrated at the same time. 

What can be done to help?

  • Topical Retinoids such as Retinol : which helps with the skins natural cellular renewal process. This can then help with acne and also wrinkles. Retinoids can be either prescription strength or OTC.
  • Suplementation with Zinc and Vitamin A.
  • Omega 3 supplementation – found in fish oil, Sea Buckthorn & flaxseeds clear acne by inhibiting two inflammatory chemicals that are responsible for acne breakouts, they are called PGE2 and LTB4. Omega-3’s do wonders for all inflammatory skin conditions.
  • Improving gut health.
  • Oral prescription medication such as short term antibiotics (and I stress ‘short term’ due to the disruption in gut health’) or in severe cases Accutane (a synthetic vitamin A derivative). Note Accutane can have irritating side effects and must not be taken when pregnant or breastfeeding.
  • Stress management
  • Gently Cleanse your face and body as soon as you can after exercise.
  • Dietary adjustments. Cut out unfermented dairy which worsens acne because it spikes the acne-causing hormone IGF-1 & can increase inflammation.A low GI diet (ditch the white carbs and sugar).
  • LED Light Therapy & Kleresca
  • R+F Unblemish & Spotless  – see below 

TEEN VS. ADULT ACNE

 

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R+F Unblemish

WHO IS IT FOR?

For adults who have acne and ageing concerns like dullness, uneven skin tone and texture, and loss of firmness.

WHAT IS IT?

UNBLEMISH addresses adult acne by drying and exfoliating, and reduces visible signs of ageing.

Clears current blemishes, unclog pores and reduce visible redness caused by acne, while preventing new breakouts from forming. 

The skin-clarifying four product pack is based on a philosophy of Multi-Med Therapy. This is all about using the right ingredients and active cosmetics, in the right formulations, in the right order. It’s a systematic approach and the results are guaranteed. Each regimen is designed to last 60 days and they’re backed by a 60-day money back guarantee – that’s how confident the company is that you’ll see results.

R+F Spotless

WHO IS IT FOR?


For teens and young adults, to help dry out and clear existing acne and prevent new blemishes from forming.

WHAT IS IT?


SPOTLESS is an easy-to-use 2-step Regimen that helps dry out and eliminate current breakouts and prevent future breakouts.

You can’t put a value on a boosted self esteem/ confidence. 

To purchase click here

 

Note:- If you sign up for PC Perks (Preferred Customer Perks) you will receive insider information, access to specials, enhanced customer service, 10% off all Rodan and Fields products, and FREE shipping. 

 

See here for more tips to control acne

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Victoria Isherwood (Registered Nurse / Dermatology)

Why Exfoliate?

One of the fastest and most effective ways to brighten up dull skin is to exfoliate — that is, to remove old skin cells, revealing newer skin underneath.

SO …. Out with the old; in with the new

Why Exfoliate?

Exfoliating helps with cell turnover, the natural shedding of dead cells that slows down as we age. If these cells accumulate, skin can feel rough and look dull. Exfoliation helps remove some of that debris, so skin is smoother and reflects light more evenly.

Some of the below extract taken from DermRF

There are two different ways to accomplish this instant New Year’s transformation: Mechanical exfoliators polish away dead cells using granules, such as sugar or salt crystals. Chemical exfoliators, which include glycolic acid, lactic acid and salicylic acid, dissolve the bond between old cells and the newer ones underneath.

So which exfoliation method is better? Rodan + Fields founders Dr. Katie Rodan and Dr. Kathy Fields recommend both. “We’re fans of both gentle chemical and mechanical exfoliation, with the key word being ‘gentle,” they explain in their book Write Your Skin a Prescription for Change. “In our experience, it takes the perfect combination of the two to dissolve the bonds between cells without irritating skin and to sweep away dead cells, leaving skin soft and smooth.”

The Doctors’ advice: “Don’t overdo it.” If you don’t exfoliate regularly and want to start, or if you’ve only used one kind of exfoliator and would like to add the chemical or mechanical product you’re missing, give your skin time to get used to it:

1. Start slow, and don’t overscrub. If your skin looks red or feels raw, take a break and give it a chance to recover.

2. Treat your face and body differently. The skin on elbows, knees and heels may respond well to daily exfoliation, while your face may prefer it every few days. And avoid the temptation to use a body scrub on your face; the exfoliating particles may be too aggressive. (If you’re looking for one scrub formulated for both face and body, try R+F Enhancements Micro-Dermabrasion Paste.).

3. For best results, moisturize after you exfoliate.

Why else do we love Enhancements Microdermabrasion Paste?? …because they’re eco-friendly (see here)

Looking for more great dermatological skin products? See here

Victoria Isherwood (Registered Nurse / Dermatology)

Cellulite Fast Facts

In a nutshell ….the dimpled appearance of Cellulite is caused by fat deposits pushing through the connective tissue beneath the skin.

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Physicians refer to cellulite as edematous ‘fibrosclerotic panniculopathy (EFP)’. It usually affects the buttocks and thighs but can also occur in other areas. Even thin women can have cellulite!

Contributors factors

• Weak collagen structure of the skin

• Hormonal changes

• Being overweight or having increased body fat

• Lack of physical activity

• Poor diet

• Fluid retention

• Dehydration

• Lack of circulation (blood flow)

• Smoking

• Genetics

Why does cellulite effect women more than men?

Cellulite can affect both men and women. However it is more common in females, due to the different distributions of fat, muscle, and connective tissue. Women’s fat is typically distributed in the thighs, hips and buttocks — which are common areas for cellulite.

As women age, their bodies produce less estrogen. Less estrogen can lead to poorer circulation. This can contribute to a decrease in new collagen production and the breakdown of older connective tissue.

People often think that getting older causes cellulite. However it’s more that the effects of mature skin make cellulite more noticeable. Ie ..it can ‘appear’ worse because as the skin ages, it becomes thinner and loses elasticity.

FACTS

Exercise can decrease the appearance of cellulite

Regular exercise boosts circulation and can help disguise cellulite by increasing muscle tone under the skin. Exercise also improves lymphatic drainage, which carries toxins away from cells. If drainage is sluggish it will contribute to cellulite.

Also, having more muscle makes your skin look smoother and firmer.

Hormones

Hormones can play a role in cellulite development. Estrogen, insulin, noradrenaline, thyroid hormones, and prolactin influence the cellulite production process.

Dehydration

Dehydration can causes thinner (as well as drier & weaker) skin – which has a much greater tendency to show cellulite.

It’s also believed that not getting enough water can cause toxic buildup in the fat cells (that is then difficult for the body to metabolise).

Smoking

Cigarette smoke reduces blood flow and circulation, which weakens and disrupts the formation of collagen. This causes the connective tissue to stretch, weaken and become damaged more easily. As a result, more cellulite will show through.

Genetics

Genetic factors can be linked to a person’s speed of metabolism, distribution of fat under the skin, and circulatory levels. These can affect the chance of cellulite developing.

Treatment?

Cellulite is a difficult condition to treat, there is no procedure on the market that effectively removes all cellulite permanently. However, the appearance of cellulite can be reduced using a combination of lifestyle changes and medical grade technologies.

Some procedures for cellulite really do work, however the results are often temporary.

Laser treatment – Also called Radiofrequency (RF)

May improve the appearance of cellulite for up to a year or more.

Cellfina – This Food and Drug Administration (FDA) cleared minimally invasive treatment is proven to improve the appearance of cellulite for at least two years.

After the area is numbed, a Doctor inserts a small device through the skin near each cellulite dimple. There is a tiny, rapidly vibrating blade on the end of the device, which divides the band causing the cellulite dimple. This is repeated for each dimple until the procedure is complete. The downside: It costs around $4K and you will have some temporary bruising.

See more about Cellfina here.

Cellulaze – Similarly to Cellfina, this procedure is designed to break down the structure of cellulite beneath your skin—except it uses lasers rather than blades.

This popular FDA-approved laser treatment involves a doctor injecting numbing solution (into the area to be treated), then a laser is inserted under the skin. It shoots heat in three directions. A 75% improvement is expected. The small laser helps increase skin thickness, release the bands that create dimples, stimulate collagen production, and flatten out fat. Results are supposed to last for about a year or two.

Cryolipolysis – This treatment can reduce fat by freezing the lipids in fat cells. While it can be very effective for getting rid of small pockets of unwanted fat, it will only slightly (if at all) decrease cellulite.

Velashape – This handheld device uses infrared light to help reduce fat layers. It’s FDA-approved, and is considered a non-invasive treatment (meaning it doesn’t require injections or cuts).  It involves a combination of infrared therapy and mechanical massage to increase lymphatic drainage, while reducing the actual size of the fat cells and fat chambers. The device is pressed on the surface of skin, with results starting to appear after about four treatments.

Subcision – Involves a specialist putting a needle under the skin to break up the connective tissue bands. Results can last 2 years or more.

Carboxytherapy – Involves inserting carbon dioxide gas under the skin. ‘Some’ cellulite might disappear. Side effects include bruising and discomfort after the procedure,

Endermologie – Involves a deep massage with a vacuum-like device that lifts the skin. The (FDA) have approved it as safe, however there is little evidence that it is guaranteed to reduce cellulite.

Skin-firming creams? – There is limited evidence proving creams or scrubs with stimulant ingredients (like caffeine, ginger and green or black tea), help by improving circulation and breaking down fat-cell stores. However products containing Retinol may help create a slightly thicker skin cover that can help camouflage cellulite.

Get Your Weekend Glow On

Spray on Tan allows you to look good and feel great all year round without the risks of skin cancer and the harmful suns ageing effects.

Many people associate the glow of a tan with youthful health. Yet as we know, research shows that the bronzed skin we get from the sun leads to premature wrinkles and skin cancer. SO it’s no surprise that alternative tanning is a big business.

Spray on Tan

Not only is it a safer alternative to sun baking and solarium use; Spray tanning allows for an even colour, any time of the year – rain, hail or shine.

It can also help disguise stretch marks, cellulite and uneven skin tone.

Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) is the ingredient that creates the tanning effect. DHA is derived from NATURAL sugar cane. It has a long history of safe use.

TechnoTan Spray Tan is made up of naturally derived ingredients and is:-
• Cruelty Free 
• Vegan Friendly
• Alcohol and Paraben Free

The (2 hr) Bio Tan contains DHA + other exotic ingredients known for their anti-aging, moisturising and hydrating properties – such as Moroccan Argan Oil & coffee extract. It also contains the amazing Centella (famous for its skin repair and rejuvenation).

Tan Prep

For best results exfoliate the day before. This will help remove dead skin cells and to smooth and prepare the skin for an even tan.

On the day leave all deodorant / perfumes and moisturisers off the skin so the tan can absorb evenly.

Where to find the best spray tan on Sydney’s Northern Beaches?

Total Look Beauty Salon in Freshwater

For a great ‘at home’ tanning option see here

Victoria Isherwood (Registered Nurse)

The Truth about Stretch Marks

Stretch marks are long, narrow scar-like streaks that develop on the skin. They usually occur when the skin cannot resume normal form after a period of being stretched or shrunk quickly. This includes:-

  • A growth spurt during puberty
  • Pregnancy
  • Weight gain
  • Bodybuilding- Rapid development of muscle mass

Stretch marks result from:-

  • The tearing of the dermis (middle layer of skin).
  • The normal production of collagen (which makes up the connective tissue in our skin) being disrupted when the skin is overstretched.

Stretch marks can also be called striae, striae distensae (SD), striae atrophicans, and striae gravidarum.

There is some evidence to suggest that genetics can sometimes play a role in susceptibility to stretch marks. 

Approximately 75% of women experience stretch marks from pregnancy.

Early stretch marks are usually red or purple. Over time, stretch marks lose their colour and become white or silvery in appearance. 

Although less common, stretch marks can also be caused by:-

  • Certain Medical conditions: such as Marian Syndrome, and Cushing’s syndrome. Marfan syndrome can cause decreased elasticity in the skin tissue, and Cushing’s syndrome can cause an over production of a hormone (cortisol) that leads to rapid weight gain and skin fragility.
  • Prolonged use of corticosteroid creams and ointments (such as hydrocortisone)- which can decrease levels of collagen in the skin.
  • Also -people who have to take high doses of oral corticosteroids for months or longer.

Nutritional deficiencies can contribute to stretch marks. Especially low levels of Zinc, Vitamin C and Essential Fatty Acids. A diet high in processed foods can often cause a deficiency in these nutrients.

Foods that can help

A diet high in essential fatty acids (EFA’s) help maintain a healthy skin cell membrane. Fish rich in EFA’s include salmon, sardines, mackerel (& other oily fish). Certain nuts & seeds, avocados, and flaxseed oil are also good forms of EFA’s.

Vitamin C is an important nutrient for the development of collagen. Vitamin C is found in many fruits and vegetables. Eg Citrus fruits such as oranges and lemons, berries, cherries, papaya, peppers (capsicum) kale, broccoli etc.

Protein is required to make Collagen. Good sources include lean red meat, fish, chicken, eggs, dairy & lentils.

Zinc is also important for collagen production, as well as skin repair and healing. Zinc rich foods include nuts (especially brazil nuts), fish, meats (such as beef, lamb, pork & turkey), eggs, dairy, quinoa and legumes. These zinc rich foods are important to help keep your skin healthy.

Vitamin A protects skin health and also encourages the formation of new skin cells. Liver and cod liver oil are excellent sources Of Vitamin A. Other good sources include bright orange vegetables and fruits (such as carrots, sweet potatoes, mangos and apricots) and leafy greens such as spinach and kale.

What else can help

Staying hydrated

Drinking enough water can help keep our skin supple and hydrated. As does applying topical hydrating and moisturising products. Soft hydrated skin tends to be more elastic and does not to develop stretch marks as easily as dry skin does.

Hyaluronic acid

According to the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD),  two large studies showed that applying hyaluronic acid to early stretch marks made the stretch marks less noticeable.

Retinol 

Another study showed that people who applied a good strength Retinol cream every night for 24 weeks had less noticeable stretch marks. Those who didn’t apply the cream saw their early stretch marks grow. Other studies have found similar results.

Sunless self-tanner

While tanning can make stretch marks more noticeable, a good quality sunless self-tanner can camouflage stretch marks.

The following procedures can decrease the look of stretch marks:-

  • Fractioned Laser Therapy – helps stimulate the skins collagen and elastin. There are various types of laser therapy. C02 Laser Therapy is another. See more here
  • Skin needling .  See more info here
  • Chemical peels – resulting in peeling off the top layers of damaged, dead skin to activate new skin cell production. 

Other

Oder stretch marks that are white or shiny silver in appearance, are much harder to treat. On the other hand, if they are redish or pink in colour, there is a better chance of improvement.

 Victoria Isherwood (Registered Nurse / Dermatology)